Should Your Hair Be Clean or Dirty Before Getting It Colored?

As you count the days in your calendar until your next hair appointment and prepare for freshly-colored strands, you may be wondering, “Should I wash my hair before dyeing it?” It’s a common question, and there can be confusion around it—especially since much of the advice on the internet is outdated.

Does that coating of dry shampoo or hairspray from last Saturday’s blowout help or hinder hair color from gripping the follicle? Just how dirty is too dirty for an appointment? And can you dye wet hair or should you dry it before heading to the salon? To help set the record straight on all of this and more, we consulted with Redken artist and hairstylist, Hannah Matthews Moore.

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Should You Wash Your Hair Before Dyeing It?

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You may be under the impression that it’s best to go a day or two between washes before dyeing your hair, but according to Moore, you should usually wash your hair before coloring it. “There was a time when hair color was very harsh and you needed a barrier between it and your skin,” she says. That’s not the case anymore: Today, hairstylists generally prefer the hair to be clean before dyeing it.

“Hair color these days is different from when your mother and grandmother got their hair done,” Moore explains. “It used to be recommended that you come with dirty hair, but now that hair color has changed to more gentle formulas, it needs as little barrier as possible to effectively color your hair.” In fact, she says, today’s hair color doesn’t adhere as well if the hair is dirty.

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Note that while you can wash your hair the same day you dye it, you don’t have to lather up immediately prior to hitting the salon. “A shampoo the night before is totally fine,” Moore says. There are exceptions, of course. If you’re sweaty or just hit the gym, wash your hair before heading to the salon. Just be sure to dry it thoroughly (or have your colorist dry it). While you can dye wet hair, doing so requires a different technique than coloring dry strands.

Does Hair Dye Color Matter When Deciding Whether or Not to Wash It?

While your hair should be clean for all hair coloring services, how clean may depend on the color you’re going for. In most cases, having freshly washed strands is ideal—as Moore says, “hair color needs the path of least resistance” for the most seamless end results. This is especially true if you’re using a semi-permanent hair color, like a hair gloss. According to Moore, these gentler formulas may have a harder time breaking through oil and product build-up—so if you want a seamless color, a thorough shampooing prior to your appointment is key.

There are, however, exceptions. If you have a sensitive scalp and are getting a root touch-up—or are having bleach applied directly to your scalp—second-day hair is best, Moore says. The slight “barrier” provided by your scalp’s natural oils can help prevent your scalp from tingling or feeling irritated while your color is processing. If you’re unsure if hair dye will irritate your scalp, talk to your dermatologist and hair colorist before your appointment.

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