Because I am happiest when I let cakes be cakes, and cookies be cookies in all of their real-butter-and-refined sugar bliss, I rarely swap whole wheat or other ingredients in desserts in an effort to put a health halo on them, with two exceptions. The first is morning baked goods, usually muffins like these I’d make for the kids on a weekday, which just feel more breakfast when they least resemble, say, a birthday cake, not that there aren’t days that require that, too. The second is when I think the baked good is improved by the ingredient swap — more crisp/craggy, dynamic or flavorful. I just never expected it to happen to what we call our House Cookie — a one-bowl oatmeal cookie I’ve probably made many times a year for well over a decade, always putting extra scoops in the freezer, so we can have freshly baked cookies when life demands them.
But when, like most of us, I ran low on white flour in April, I used whole wheat instead and discovered that the recipe wasn’t just as good as it was with white flour, but better. Crunchier, more flavorful, and even nuanced. From there, I swapped in a little raw sugar. I bumped up the salt a little. I added a little extra cragginess, sometimes with wheat germ or bran, and at other times with finely-chopped walnuts. A little baking powder gives them an almost Levain-like height at larger sizes, if you rest the dough a bit. Don’t worry, they’re still a treat — butter, lots of dark chocolate chunks or chips, and we like them on the big side, in 3-tablespoon scoops, for the most varied and interesting texture. And even though regular flour is back at regular prices on all of the shelves, they’re so much better like this, I haven’t gone back to making them the old way and I bet you won’t either.
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* Did anyone else read this Atlantic article about flour shortages this spring? I was so surprised to learn that wheat supplies weren’t the issue (as more flour went into homes, less went to restaurants) but the paper bags grocery-sized flour is packed in.
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Previously
6 months ago: Ultimate Banana Bread 1 year ago: Cinnamon Sugar Scones 2 years ago: Breakfast Burritos 3 years ago: Marbled Banana Bread 4 years ago: Piri Piri Chicken and Chocolate Pavlova 5 years ago: Oat and Wheat Sandwich Bread 6 years ago: Cauliflower Slaw, Cucumber Lemonade, and Sunken Apple and Honey Cake 7 years ago: Fudgy Chocolate Sheet Cake and Frico Grilled Cheese Sandwich 8 years ago: Roasted Apple Spice Sheet Cake and Homemade Wheat Thins 9 years ago: Roasted Tomato Soup with Broiled Cheddar and Apple and Honey Challah 10 years ago: Monkey Cake and Beef Chili + Sour Cream and Cheddar Biscuits 11 years ago: Grilled Lamb Kebabs + Tzatziki and Snickerdoodles 12 years ago: Spinach Quiche, Bread Without A Timetable and Black-and-White Cookies 13 years ago: Tortilla de Patatas and Chocolate Babka 14 years ago: Orange Chocolate Chunk Cake
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