Working towards your skin goals – be that improving skin texture, tackling pigmentation or clearing acne is one focus. Throw facial hair removal like dermaplaning or waxing into the mix and you’ve got potentially irritating issues.
Active ingredients – think retinoids like tretinoin or exfoliating AHAs and BHAs to improve skin’s appearance – don’t make easy bedfellows alongside most facial hair removal methods.
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And it’s not always a case of choosing one or the other. Facial hair removal is a reality for many people. But because everyone’s skin is different, finding good advice on how to navigate hair removal with minimal irritation – and how this relates to active ingredients in our skincare routines – can be hard to find.
We delve into the pros and cons of a handful of the most popular hair removal methods, and check-in with our Consultant Dermatologist Dr Ben Esdaile, for what it means for treating your skin goals at the same time.
Facial hair removal and skincare with Dermatologist Dr Ben Esdaile
Skin + Me: Why do people have excess facial hair?
Dr Ben Esdaile: Excess hair is a normal variant (physiological) for most people but in some cases, it can have underlying medical causes related to circulating hormones. Hirsutism is a condition that occurs in women. This is when excessive dark and coarse hair grows in a male-like pattern on the face, chest and back. Excess or unwanted hair can have a big impact on self-esteem and mental health.
Skin + Me: What hair removal techniques are available?
Dr Ben Esdaile: There are two main types of hair removal that can be temporary or permanent. The most common, temporary methods include epilation techniques such as waxing, plucking, sugaring, threading and abrasives. Depilation techniques include shaving and creams that remove hairs (chemical depilation). More permanent hair removal methods include laser hair removal and electrolysis. These aim to destroy the hair follicle to prevent the hairs from regrowing permanently.
Skin + Me: What is the difference between epilation and depilation?
Dr Ben Esdaile: Epilation is the removal of the entire hair (including the root below the skin surface) whereas depilation is the removal of the hair at the skin surface.
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Skin + Me: Do hairs grow back thicker after shaving?
Dr Ben Esdaile: It’s a common misconception that once shaved off, hair grows back thicker. When a hair is shaved, the tip that’s growing may appear thicker as the tapered end has been shaved off. The hair is still the same diameter.
Skin + Me: How is it best to remove hairs when using retinoids?
Dr Ben Esdaile: It’s best not to use wax for hair removal when using topical retinoids. Retinoids are chemical exfoliators and waxing will further exfoliate your skin and likely result in redness, sometimes extreme irritation and a ‘burn-like’ appearance. Sugaring, although milder than waxing, may also lead to irritation.
Techniques such as threading and plucking can be used with care as well as some of the gentle depilatory creams. Care needs to be taken when using topical retinoids when having laser hair removal and is probably best to stop using retinoids for at least seven days before treatment. Some chemical depilatory creams can also cause irritation and so again be careful if using at the same time sensitivity-triggering ingredients such as retinoids.
Facial hair removal guide
Refer to our guide of popular hair removal methods when it comes to staying smooth and protecting your skin.
“It’s a common misconception that once shaved off, hair grows back thicker. The hair is still the same diameter.”
Dr Ben Esdaile
Dermaplaning
Dermablading shares similarities with shaving. It uses a small exfoliating blade, to lightly take away the top layer of skin and accompanying fine hair with it.
Tweezing
Plucking hairs directly from the root.
Epilation
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An epilator grabs hair over a wider surface area than shaving and tweezing in one go, and pulls them from the root.
Waxing and sugaring (at home)
Using soft wax or a sugaring formula that’s specifically formulated for facial hair removal. Sugaring is slightly more gentle on the skin.
Laser hair removal (at home)
Pulsating laser beams damage hair follicles and the hair falls out.
Electrolysis (at home)
Electrolysis is hair removal with a tool that emits an eclectic current with a fine electrode to target individual hairs.
Depilatory creams
Over the counter depilatory creams are strong alkaline chemical treatments that dissolve hair so it’s wiped away shortly after application.
Threading
A trained cosmetologist or esthetician uses a thread to twist hair and lift it out of the follicle.
A reminder: Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to some hair removal methods. It’s not recommended you mix tretinoin and face waxing. Our Dermatologists don’t endorse all the hair removal methods mentioned in this feature. Always check with your prescriber if you have sensitive skin or any questions before you try facial hair removal at the same time as using your Skin + Me treatment.
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Medical facts checked by Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Ben Esdaile
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