HexClad’s pans are coated in nonstick hexagonal “valleys” with stainless steel “ridges” in between. In theory, you could reap the benefits of both nonstick and stainless cookware in one fell swoop. In practice, it turns out these pans aren’t the best stainless or nonstick cookware. You don’t get the best of both worlds. The pans aren’t really nonstick. You still need to use oil or butter to cook eggs, for example, and I experienced food sticking to the stainless steel ridges. And they aren’t really stainless steel. A hard sear on a piece of meat needs high temperatures, but to maximize their durability you shouldn’t heat coated pans to high temperatures—even HexClad says you should start with lower temperatures. You can get a nice sear on HexClad cookware, but is the trade-off risking the breakdown of the coating and therefore potentially your health? Is the trade-off worth the fact that you can’t build up a good fond due to the nonstick surface? I never go through these mental gymnastics when I’m cooking with my cast-iron skillet or my All-Clad Essentials Pan. And I found myself resenting HexClad for interrupting my thoughts while I was cooking dinner. The last thing I want to be worried about on top of Everything Going On in the world is whether my dinner is safe to eat—or going to turn out the way I intend.
Second Guesses
Composition aside, the design of HexClad’s cookware was also just fine. It generally looks and weighs similar to All-Clad pans, with the exception of a curvy handle that I found hard to grip. All-Clad handles are relatively easy to grip. HexClad’s have a bulbous center that does stay cool to the touch, provided you can manage enough grip around that bigger middle section. I couldn’t, apparently, and I burned myself on the thinner metal piece closer to the pan. Not to shout into the void, but you know what pans don’t have that problem? Take a wild guess. And it’s important to mention that HexClad pans have a magnetic base, so they can be used with induction cooktops. I don’t have induction so I didn’t test this method, but it may be a draw for some people. HexClad also offers a limited lifetime warranty covering manufacturer defects. This warranty matches what you’d find from All-Clad and other cookware brands.
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All of this is to say that, again, I don’t think HexClad cookware is bad. It’s easy to clean—either in the dishwasher or by hand, which is what the company recommends—and it’s a totally viable cooking surface. It’s oven-safe to 500 degrees Fahrenheit, and it’ll look nice in your kitchen. The lids fit well and the cookware gets the job done. But I just don’t have that many nice things to note about it. If you want to spend an arm and a leg on it, you could. I think you’d be better off investing the same amount of money in non-hybrid cookware—it would be cheaper to get a good nonstick and a good stainless steel, and you’d actually have the best of both worlds, because sometimes worlds can be separate. I know there are celebrity chefs who rave about these, and to end I’d like to quote the great Ron Swanson: Never half-ass two things. Whole-ass one thing.
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