Creamy Lip Balm

This rich, creamy lip balm came out of the experiments I did as I was developing my recipe for my Basic Moldable Lipstick Base. It was the far end of my “let’s make this creamier” experiments, and while I loved how it felt, it basically glued itself to the inside of the lipstick mold and refused to budge. Not one to let something that luxxy go to waste, though, I decided it should be a lip balm instead!

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Since this was borne out of lipstick development, not lip balm development, it definitely has a longer, fussier ingredient list than your average lip balm, but I think it’s worth it. The bulk of the lip balm is rich, glossy castor oil and creamy cetearyl alcohol. Cetearyl alcohol provides thickening along with being a wonderful emollient, and allows us to use less wax and still get a firm, creamy end product.

Lecithin and stearic acid further amp up the creamy factor; I love the slight tug they both add to the balm. Stearic acid also contributes to wax-less thickening. We do still have two waxes in here—beeswax and candelilla. Beeswax brings its wonderful tacky hardening to the balm, while candelilla brings a bit of hard, glossy hardness. The whole lot is rounded off with a bit of simple fractionated coconut oil and some vitamin E oil to extend the shelf life.

Despite the longer-than-usual ingredients list, making this balm is as easy as any other: measure, melt, pour. We will be doing something fun with this base in my next post, so stay tuned!

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Creamy Lip Balm

Heated phase 20.25g | 40.5% castor oil (USA / Canada) 2.5g | 5% soy lecithin 10g | 20% cetearyl alcohol (USA / Canada) 2.5g | 5% stearic acid (USA / Canada / UK) 5g | 10% fractionated coconut oil (USA / Canada) 8g | 16% beeswax (USA / Canada) 1.5g | 3% candelilla wax

Cool down phase 0.25g | 0.5% Vitamin E MT-50 (USA / Canada)

Prepare a water bath by bringing about 3cm/1″ of water to a bare simmer over low to medium-low heat in a small saucepan.

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Weigh the heated phase ingredients into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup. Place the measuring cup in your prepared water bath to melt everything through.

After about 20-30 minutes everything should be completely melted through. Remove the water bath from the heat, remove the measuring cup from the water bath, and dry it off with a dish towel. Weigh in the cool down phase and stir with a flexible silicone spatula to incorporate.

Pour 25g of the lip balm into a 30mL/1 ounce tin. We’ll be doing some cool stuff with that later 😉

You’ve now got enough lip balm left for about five standard tubes; you can pour it as is, or add 0.5-1% lip-safe essential oil and stir that in before pouring. Let that set up and you’re ready to roll!

Because these lip balms are 100% oil based, it does not require a broad-spectrum preservative (broad spectrum preservatives ward off microbial growth, and microbes require water to live—no water, no microbes!). Kept reasonably cool and dry, they should last at least a year before any of the oils go rancid. If you notice they start to smell like old nuts or crayons, that’s a sign that the oils have begun to oxidize; chuck them out and make a fresh batch if that happens.

Substitutions

As always, be aware that making substitutions will change the final product. While these swaps won’t break the recipe, you will get a different final product than I did.

• As I’ve provided this recipe in percentages as well as grams you can easily calculate it to any size using a simple spreadsheet as I’ve explained in this post. As written in grams this recipe will make 50g.
• Do not substitute the castor oil
• You can use sunflower lecithin instead of soy, just be sure whatever you use is liquid.
• Do not substitute the cetearyl alcohol or stearic acid
• You can substitute another lightweight oil like sweet almond, grapeseed, or sunflower seed for the fractionated coconut oil
• You can use refined or unrefined beeswax
• You can try soy wax in place of the beeswax, though I haven’t tried this so I’m not sure how it’ll go.
• You can use carnauba wax instead of candelilla

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