What Does Glycolic Acid Do? A Quickie Guide to Everyone’s Favorite Exfoliator

True story: I’ve never met a facialist, dermatologist, or skincare expert in general who doesn’t love glycolic acid. One of the most effective and widely used AHAs (aka alpha hydroxy acids, a type of chemical exfoliator), glycolic acid is found naturally in plants and fruits—like sugar cane, sugar beets, pineapples, and grapes—and, when used in well-formulated products, works wonders at smoothing, brightening, and softening your skin. Truly, it’s the MVP powerhouse behind really good skin (aside from retinol, that is). Ahead, everything you need to know about glycolic acid, including how it works and when you should be using it.

What does glycolic acid do for your face?

A lot, actually. “Using glycolic acid can help fade hyperpigmentation, minimize pores, refine skin texture, and smooth lines and wrinkles,” says dermatologist Saya Obayan, MD. How, you ask? “Glycolic acid works by dissolving the glue that holds together dead skin cells, lifting pigment from the skin, and increasing collagen production,” explains Dr Obayan. And it does this all without creating little micro-tears in your skin, like an aggressive scrub or exfoliating brush.

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What percentage of glycolic acid is safe?

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“I suggest starting with a product that has a low percentage of glycolic acid, like 5 percent, if you’re new to using acids,” says Dr. Obayan. (P.S., When you first start using glycolic acid, you may notice a slight tingling upon application—that’s normal.) If you’ve been using a low-level glycolic acid for some time (think: six months or more), you can slowly work your way up to one with a 15 percent or 20 percent concentration. As a rule, the higher the percentage, the more effective the formula will be at brightening dark spots and smoothing lines…but also the harsher it can be on your skin.

Is it ok to use glycolic acid everyday?

It depends on the concentration and the type of product you’re using it in. My skin can tolerate using glycolic acid daily, but more sensitive skin types may only be able to handle a few times a week. As a general rule, start slow and decrease frequency at the first sign of irritation, itching, or redness. “I recommend patients with sensitive skin ‘spot test’ a glycolic acid serum on a small area of skin before slathering it on their face. If they can use it daily for a one week without any redness, irritation, or dryness, they can start applying it to all over,” says Dr. Obayan.

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What I def don’t recommend? Using multiple glycolic acid-based products (like an exfoliating cleanser, liquid toner, and serum) in a row, every single. That’s just a guaranteed recipe for irritation.

When should I use glycolic acid in my routine?

Ideally, you want to use glycolic acid at night since since the ingredient can make skin photosensitive. And that photosensitivity can lead to sunburns, premature aging, and a darkening of acne scars and hyperpigmentation. Also impt: daily sunscreen! “Always wear an SPF of 30 or more while using a glycolic acid serum,” adds Dr. Obayan.

As for the type of product glycolic acid works best in? Hands down a face serum. You’ll get the most bang for your buck since the ingredient really has time to sit on your skin and work it’s magic. Plus, when used in a serum, glycolic acid is often paired with other ingredients like antioxidants and retinol making it that much more effective. See for yourself and try one of these 16 best glycolic acid serums, below.

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