The Benefits of Coconut Oil for Both Your Hair and Scalp

As a child, every Saturday morning, like clockwork, my mom would forcefully apply coconut oil to my scalp. No matter how much I protested (I really hated the scent), she persevered, emphasizing the importance of hair care and looking after ourselves. And while I still view most of my beauty routines as vanity-driven, the concept of scalp care as a form of self-care has remained deeply ingrained in me over the years. After all, someone who loves themselves will prioritize the well-being of their hair. Which is why I’ve remained faithful to hair oiling and scalp massages, even though I now live far away from home (miss you, mom).

Lately, there has been a lot of discourse around whether or not coconut oil is good for your hair — something I find to be a personal attack, as South Asian women have been loyal to Parachute coconut oil since the beginning of time. No seriously, even when dinosaurs roamed the earth, you could find one with a long oil-slicked braid running down her back. To clear this up, I consulted with four hairstylists to explain the benefits of coconut oil, how to use it, and whether or not hair texture matters. I also sourced their expert recommendations, as well as the recommendations of Elle.com editors.

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What are the benefits of coconut oil?

Coconut oil contains so many benefits for your whole body, inside and out. As far as hair is concerned, “Coconut oil adds nourishment, hydration, and shine to the hair. It can also take away some of the dry skin on the scalp during cleansing,” says Edward Tricomi, master hair stylist and co-founder of Warren Tricomi Salon.

According to celebrity hairstylist Albert Morrison, whose clientele includes Jennifer Hudson, Yaya Dacosta, and Mary J Blige, “Coconut oil is a natural product known for its lightweight nature, richness in zinc, vitamin K, and vitamin E. It’s ideal for oxygenating hair follicles and enhancing hair strength.” Some studies indicate that coconut oil can help prevent the bacteria causing dandruff and soothe the scalp.

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Additionally, coconut oil tames frizz, enhances shine, acts as an effective anti-inflammatory, and aids in healing damaged hair by softening, hydrating, and fortifying brittle strands, as highlighted by hairstylist Kim Kimble.

How to use coconut oil for hair

There’s no one-size-fits-all way to use coconut oil for your hair, as there are many different approaches. One thing is for sure, though: it adds luster and shine to dull, dry hair. According to celebrity hairstylist Ericka Verrett, whose clients include Miranda Kerr, Arden Cho, and Lili Reinhart, one method involves using coconut oil as a pre-wash treatment for dry strands, helping to retain moisture and natural oils. She suggests massaging it into the scalp to balance the skin’s pH: “With its antimicrobial properties, it creates a protective barrier against bacteria and soothes dry or irritated scalp.” Kimble adds, “Coconut oil on the scalp not only stimulates hair growth but also leaves hair shiny and healthy-looking. It eliminates dandruff and acts as a natural moisturizer.”

If you prefer not to apply it directly to your scalp, you can nourish the ends of your hair with it. Start by shampooing your hair as usual, then comb coconut oil through from the midsection to the ends. After washing and conditioning, Kimble suggests using coconut oil as a detangler by rubbing a small amount through your hair and brushing it. Tricomi also recommends this method, suggesting you use a few drops (no more than two to four) to provide shine and hold. “Remember that using coconut oil can make your hair oily, so be mindful of the amount you use and the hairstyle you’re pairing it with,” he advises.

Contrary to popular belief, coconut oil doesn’t need to be piping hot before use. “The best ways to apply coconut oil are to warm it between your palms or hands, or use a wax warmer to keep the oil in a liquid form during application,” advises Morrison. The key is to ensure it’s warm enough to avoid any lumps and maintain a smooth consistency. If using your hands doesn’t yield results, you can also use warm water. “Coconut oil turns solid at room temperature and only begins to soften around 78 degrees. Ensure your coconut oil is unrefined, as it boasts a higher nutritional profile and antioxidants,” says Verrett.

Does hair texture matter?

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While coconut oil is suitable for all hair textures, it’s important to consider certain factors before dousing your hair in oil. Morrison explains, “For those with very small or tight curls, coconut oil is excellent for scalp treatments, hot oil treatments, and enhancing the shine of beautiful afros and twist outs.” If you have curly, dry hair, you can use coconut oil as a pre-shampoo to safeguard your hair from moisture-stripping shampoos, as advised by Kimble.

For medium curls, Morrison says, “It’s effective in minimizing frizz for wash-and-go styles.” Coconut oil can be applied more frequently to those with curly hair compared to individuals with straight hair. “Curly or coarse hair tends to absorb coconut oil better and maintain the curl’s shape, whereas straight hair is more prone to becoming weighed down,” warns Tricomi.

As for straight hair, Morrison notes, “It’s great for taming flyaways but should be used very sparingly to prevent weighing down the hair.” If you have straight or thinner hair, make sure to apply coconut oil with a light touch, as it may add heaviness to your hair, and leave your hair looking greasy. “If you over-apply coconut oil, it could worsen dandruff as the type of yeast that causes dandruff feeds off lauric acid,” Kimble adds.

According to Verrett, coconut oil earned its bad rep due to its tendency to become too heavy if not used sparingly. This heaviness can lead to protein build-up, water repulsion, and the potential for greasy-looking hair, particularly for those with fine hair.“Using coconut oil in moderation with hair type and texture in mind will help avoid these cons, as well as show all the benefits in the hair,” says Verrett.

Is coconut oil bad for your hair?

Coconut oil has gotten a bad name and become a controversial oil—depending on who you ask. However, as both Morrison and Kimble note above, application is everything. Over applying coconut oil can cause protein buildup on your scalp, blocking your follicles, and preventing moisture from reaching your scalp. This can ultimately lead to dry, brittle hair. Coconut oil is also hydrophobic, meaning it repels water. This makes it great for sealing in moisture, so apply coconut oil to wet hair for maximum hydration. Another little trick is that you can apply coconut oil to dry hair to serve as a barrier for water. This is great if you are going swimming in a pool and want to protect your hair from oh-so-damaging chlorine water. So in short, no—coconut oil itself isn’t bad, how you are applying it to your scalp and strands may be.

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